In a couple of days, you’ll be able to purchase the bundle of Dolls clothes patterns I’ve been working on, from Rafiki Mwema (you can find out more about why I’m selling the patterns via Raifiki Mwema in this blog post HERE).
Each of the patterns will come with 5 dolly sizes so I thought now was a good time to chat about dolly sizing so you’ll know what sizes you’ll want to sew when these patterns are released.
The trickiest thing with making these patterns was deciding what size dolls I should make the patterns to fit. If you’ve ever walked through a toy store you’ll be aware that there’s a huge range of dolly sizes and styles. Dolls vary in height, width and proportions and they don’t follow the even progressions you get with people sizing. In the end I decided on five sizes which cover many different sizes and styles of dolls.
When choosing the size you’ll make, you should consider your dolls body “type” as well as its height and waist measurements. Be aware that in the sizing table (see below) sometimes taller dolls are slimmer – this is intentional and reflects the body “type” of dolls that size is to fit.
If you get stuck choosing what size to make just send me an email I’m happy to help firstname.lastname@example.org
Ainslee Fox Boutique Patterns Dolly Sizing
Grande – This size is to fit dolls with a Child Shaped body such as Australian Girl Dolls, American Girl Dolls, My Generation Dolls etc.
Mezzo – This size is to fit dolls with a baby/toddler shaped body such as Cabbage Patch Kids, Baby Alive, Baby Born, Miniland.
Milieu – This size is to fit dolls with a baby/toddler shaped body such as the generic kmart doll and the mid-sized Miniland doll.
Piccolo – This size is to fit “flat” style handmade dolls. Similar to those made with the bit of whimsy pattern. The patterns for this size have not much room underneath the arms. If you have a doll with this waist measurement but it is NOT a flat style doll then you would be better sewing and adjusting the Milieu size.
Bambino – This size is to fit dolls with a baby shaped body such as the tiny miniland doll.
Once you’ve chosen the size you’ll make you should make a muslin (practice go using cheap fabric) to check if you need to make any further alterations to get a good fit for your doll.
For stuffed dolls, factors such as how much the doll was stuffed when it was made and if the doll is played with, can alter the dolls dimensions. There can also be size differences within brands depending on the year the doll was made in eg the Cabbage Patch doll from when I was a child is flatter/fatter than today’s Cabbage Patch doll. The Baby Alive doll I brought kt at Christmas time, is a slightly different size/shape to the one her friend has, that was purchased 3 years ago.
Tips for adjusting the patterns for different doll Sizes
If your doll doesn’t fit one of the above sizes, or you run into problems with your muslin (practice go using cheap fabric) read on for my tips on how to alter my dolls patterns to fit dolls of different sizes.
TALLER: If your doll is taller than that specified you may be able to get these patterns to fit by cutting the skirts longer. If your doll is much taller you may also need to add some length to the bodice.
SHORTER: If your doll is shorter than that specified you may be able to get these patterns to fit by cutting the skirts shorter. If your doll is much shorter you may also need to cut some length from the bodice.
SKINNIER: If your doll is less than 2.5cm (1″) skinnier you might not need to make any alterations. If you need to make alterations there is 4 places where you can take width out of the bodice – the centre front, the centre back and the underarms. The amount of width you take out should be evenly taken out of these 4 places. Because the underarms of the front and back join each other, you should take half the amount you are removing from the underarm from the front underarm and half from the back underarm.
If there is only a little that needs to be take out, moving the centre front fold over a little when cutting out your pattern piece and cutting a little from the centre back may fix the problem without the complication of removing width from the underarms.
WIDER: If your doll is wider there is 4 places where you can add width to the bodice – the centre front, the centre back and the underarms. The amount of width you add should be evenly added at these 4 places. Because the underarms of the front and back join each other, you should add half the amount you are adding to the front underarm and half to the back underarm.
If there is only a little that needs to be added, moving the centre front fold over a little when cutting out your pattern piece and adding a little from the centre back may fix the problem without the complication of adding width to the underarms.
If you have any questions or comments please don’t hesitate to get in touch.
I’m really looking forward to seeing your dolly dresses!
Thank-you for your support and Happy Sewing!